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Geological Intermezzo in Colombia

by Nico Küter, Ilya Fomin and Richard Ott, 22.11.2018
Prof. Alejandro Beltran and Alejandro Peraquive surrounded by students in the fossil beds of Villeta.(photo credits: Richard Ott/ETH Zurich)

The Earth Science Department (ERDW) at ETH Zurich offers the unique opportunity for doctoral students to have hands-on experience in the planning of and participation in scientific, non-supervised excursions. The purpose of these excursions is to acquire organizational and communication skills and share our research with the world by contacting scientists and organizations in the destination country. Recently, our doctoral excursion successfully returned from Colombia.

At a first glance, Colombia might be perceived as a less than ideal destination for geologists; it is rather known for its rich biodiversity than rocks. However, the doctoral students came to learn about the geological wonders of this tropical country with the help of present and former ETH Zurich students and post-docs from Colombia. With the generous support of Schweizerische Universitätskonferenz (SUK) and the Earth Science Department, a group of 23 doctoral students, with backgrounds varying from geophysics to geobiochemistry, departed for Bogota. From there, the enthusiastic group piled into a bus and “hit the road” to meet former ETH Zurich faculty members Prof. Alejandro Beltrán and Dr. Alejandro Peraquive, now geologists at the University of Medellin and the Colombian Geological Survey.

With students of various scientific backgrounds planning the trip, it was an easy task to find the geological “must see” locations of Colombia. Starting from Bogota, the journey headed towards Villeta, a day’s drive east of the capital. This western-style colonial village surrounded by farmland offers unique insights into the early Cretaceous (140 million years ago), a time when this area was covered by a shallow marine sea inhabited by various dinosaurs. This local geology, a unique combination of the salt-deposits and clay- and limestones affected by later mountain building processes, eventually formed the nearby world-class emerald deposits of Muzo and Chivor.
Prof Noe explaining the almost complete skelleton of a Pliosaur in Villa de Leyva.
(photo credit: Ilya Fomin/ETH Zurich)
Small green emerald crystals in a calcite-pyrite rock from Chivor
(photo credit: Richard Ott/ETH Zurich)
The Paramos, a very fragile swamp-like landscape above 3500 m altitude that filters moisture from air and supplies Colombias Megacities with fresh water.
(photo credit: Ilya Fomin/ETH Zurich)
Heading west, we experienced the stunning topography of Colombia. The country is divided into three prominent mountain chains (Cordilleras) separated by extraordinarily flat valleys. Excellent infrastructure built in a highly challenging terrain (applied geology!) allows one to experience 4000 m of altitude change within a few hours of driving. In contrast to typical alpine-type mountain chains, Colombian mountains are covered with tropical forests reaching up to 3500 m, directly followed by unique meadows called the Páramo. This very special high-altitude vegetation is a crucial water reservoir for nearby farmland, but also the megacities of Bogota, Cali and Medellin. As global warming causes Colombian glaciers to shrink, the Páramos have become the most important source of water. As you may imagine, the greed for land (i.e. profit) puts the Páramos in danger – for planting potatoes and selling them on local markets.
The endemic wax palms (Ceroxylon quindiuense) growing in the Cocora valley (the tallest palm trees in the world, reaching heights of up to 60 m) tell us a fascinating story the Andes. Having its habitat located at an altitude of somewhere between 2000 and 3000 m, fossil remains of this very special palm tree tell us that its migration started 50 million years ago from Antarctica (which was warm at that time), and proceeded northwards, with the rising Andean mountains. Experiencing the Colombian landscapes gives you an idea of why Colombia is considered to be one of the most biologically diverse countries in the world. More than 56,000 species make up various complex ecosystems.
The Cocora Valley with the endemic wax palm Ceroxylon quindiuense. Unluckily, these palms need a dense forest to reproduce,
these impressive palms are doomed to die without offspring as the forest was cut away for farmland.
(photo credit: Ilya Fomin/ETH Zurich)
Hummingbirds in the Caucora Valley (photo credit: Ilya Fomin/ETH Zurich)
The prominent 5321 m high Nevado del Ruiz is possibly the most impressive indicator of Colombia’s active geology. In all its beauty, this volcano is a serious hazard potential, which the world came to understand in 1985 when the city of Armero was wiped out within hours by lahars, mass flows of water, and volcanic debris liberated from glaciers melted by the erupting volcano. This tragedy which caused over 20,000 casualties, could have been less hazardous if authorities had heeded the concerns of the scientists monitoring the volcano.
Armero, a city wiped out by lahars during the 1985 Nevado del Ruiz eruption, causing 20000 casulaties. The image shows the 3rd floor of the towns hospital, the rest is covered by volcanic sediment. (photo credit: Richard Ott/ETH Zurich)
The excursion group on top of the volcano Nevado del Ruiz (photo credit: Richard Ott/ETH Zurich)
Armero, a city wiped out by lahars during the 1985 Nevado del Ruiz eruption, causing 20000 casulaties. The image shows the 3rd floor of the towns hospital, the rest is covered by volcanic sediment. (photo credit: Richard Ott/ETH Zurich)
The excursion group on top of the volcano Nevado del Ruiz (photo credit: Richard Ott/ETH Zurich)
After looking at the modern volcanoes on land we continued west to look at ancient volcanic activity that formerly took place on the seafloor and is now exposed high in the mountains of western Colombia. We glimpsed the tremendous magmatic activity under sea, shedding massive volumes of basaltic lava that eventually forms the oceanic crust. This process is still active today, in the same intensity as millions of years ago and delivers us precious metals such as lead, zinc, copper, and gold.
From this ancient sea we went to the real one, taking a flight to Cartagena on the Caribbean seashore. We felt it clearly as soon as we left the aircraft: you breathe in hot, salty air, full of the smells of unknown plants. The topic for the following days was the human impact on biodiversity in the Rio Magdalena delta area, where a simple road construction cut off crucial sea water supply to mangroves, causing a drastic collapse to the local ecosystem in just a few years. This affected local fishing communities that suffer from fewer fish, and increased the concentration of heavy metals as the filter capacity of the mangroves decreased or ceased altogether. However, small restauration projects yield promising results and raise the awareness of the local population, which gives us hope that the delta will recover one day.
Colorful Cartagena (photo credit: Richard Ott/ETH Zurich)
A recovered piece of the Magdalena River Delta Mangroves. This forest was revived 30 years ago and is now home for numerous animals. (photo credit: Richard Ott/ETH Zurich)
Metamorphic rocks in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. For indigenous people these hard rocks are sacred as they keep water from being lost in the sand. (photo credit: Richard Ott/ETH Zurich)
The excursion ended with a visit to the Tayrona National Park in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, where mountain glaciers can be seen from tropical beaches. The pieces of rocks exposed here are remains of the collision between the Northern American continent with South America some 400 to 500 million years ago. This intermezzo left traces for us to study, illustrating that everything on our planet is moving, including the largest continents; it is just a matter of time.
With time running fast, fifteen amazing days ended too quickly but left us with the impression that the Earth is still full of mysteries waiting to be discovered. Our trip to Colombia revealed stories of complex ecosystems interlinked to a thriving active geology, and the realization of how fragile this link is, and how easily such stories can be lost.
Discussing magma mixing on a granite block in the Tayrona National Park (photo credit: Richard Ott/ETH Zurich)

About the authors

Ilya Fomin did his BSc and MSc in igneous petrology in Lomonosov Moscow State University. Further he moved to ETH Zurich for his doctoral studies in numerical simulation of Earth's mantle melting. Now he works in geophysics at Macquarie University in Sydney.
Nico Küter just finished his doctoral studies at ETH's Earth Science Departement, investigating the high-temperature fractionation behaviour of carbon isotopes. He co-organized the first Doctoral excursion to Taiwan in 2017, which was a perfect balance to his purely laboratory-based research project.
Richard Ott is a doctoral student at ETH working on earthquakes and landscape evolution in Greece. The Taiwan doctoral excursion 2017 inspired him to co-organize the doctoral excursion to Colombia.
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